Dartmoor combines bulletproof granite with a unique topography, making it one of the most interesting bouldering destinations in the UK.

From the exposed Tors atop the hills and valley sides to collections of boulders on the dark forested valley floors, there is an almost endless amount of bouldering to explore in southwest England.

Dartmoor is a land of mystery and history that just happens to have some of the best granite bouldering in the UK. Located in Devon in the moorlands of southwest England, Dartmoor National Park is 386 square miles of hills topped with granite outcroppings called Tors. Down in the valleys, you can find thousands of scattered boulders that if you didn't know any better you'd think were placed there just for climbing.

Even in areas with short approaches, it has a wild and remote feel that seems like you've stepped into a movie set. To add to this feel herds of wild ponies and sheep roam the land. Keep an eye out for foals and lambs in the summer, a dose of cuteness will help you recover between attempts of your chosen project.

The rock is granite which can be particularly sharp. The friction tends to be good for your feet but you may sacrifice some skin from your fingers. Bring along tape to reinforce your fingertips if/when needed.

With beautiful locations and stellar rock, Dartmoor bouldering is among the best in the UK. Most of the areas are close together so you can get in a lot of climbing without much driving or trekking. With countless Tors all over the countryside, there is still lots of opportunities to find and develop new problems if you want to put up first ascents.

Area Highlights

Bonehill Rocks

This is the Moor's most popular bouldering area with over a hundred problems and short approaches. By short we mean as soon as you get out of the car the boulders are in front of you.

The problems are graded mainly with the "V" system but some have Font grades so bring your conversion calculator. There is something for everyone with grades from V0- to V12 plus a ton of eliminates and traverses to add to the mix. Bel Tor is also close so you can add to the variety if Bonehill is too busy.

Honeybag Tor

Just north of Bonehill, you have the boulder problems of Honeybag Tor. Recent development has seen an increase in traffic helping keep the rock clean of lichen. With over 100 problems graded V0-V7, it is a good place for people looking for slightly easier climbs due to the high density of moderates.

The beautiful location up on the hills gives a great view of Castle Drogo to the north while you are taking a break. Combined with Bonehill and Bel Tor, Honeybag Tor makes for a bouldering playground all within close distance of each other.

Bovey Woods

Some might compare this to Fontainbleu as it is a bouldering area in the woods with an extensive collection of problems. The comparison ends when it comes to the rock however. Instead of fragile sandstone, you will be faced with sharp-edged granite here.

There are literally hundreds of problems with many more still to be developed. With problems from V0 to V10, you can spend years coming back trying to tick all the problems. As they are spread throughout the forest it takes some exploration to find all the boulders, but it is well worth the effort.

This area has access issues so leave as small a footprint as possible. Don't excessively clean vegetation, brush off your chalk after climbing and take out all of your litter.

Combeshead Tor

Closer to Plymouth than the other areas listed, Combeshead Tor requires a bit of a walk. Just east of the Burrator Reservoir a 20-minute stroll will bring you to a hillside covered in boulders.

More spread out than you will find at Bonehill it is still worth the trip due to the superb climbing. There are currently 90 problems that range from V0-V8.

Hound Tor

Made famous by ‘Sherlock Holmes: Hounds of the Baskervilles’, Hound Tor is just east of the Bonehill-Bell Tor-Honeybag Tor trio. You will have another hundred plus routes of varying difficulty, a short approach and the Hound of Basketmeal food truck in the parking lot.

It will take a bit to get the lay of the land as the boulders are jumbled around making finding a specific problem like trying to solve a puzzle. Worth the effort but potentially frustrating.

Don't forget your bouldering pad as some of the problems are on the highball side. Keep those ankles healthy. 

Considerations when bouldering in Dartmoor

The granite bouldering of Dartmoor comes with some unique considerations.

There can sometimes be issues of base erosion (the ground the rock is on), so always use a bouldering pad. The vegetation and soil at the base of climbs are fragile and a pad will help protect against erosion and keep your climbing shoes clean. This is always a good idea to protect your ankles as well.

Due to the wet environment, boulders that don't get climbed frequently can grow lichen so be prepared to have to brush some climbs before attempting them. Try to limit the amount of brushing with a stiff bristle brush, as you can wear down even hard rock like granite.

Many of the problems have very sharp edges and crystals. Be careful with both hand and footwork so you don't tear up your fingers and shoes.

Chalk is permitted but a chalk ball or liquid chalk is suggested to limit buildup on the holds. This will mean the rock needs less brushing to keep it in a usable condition.

Logistics

When should I go?

The exposed Tors are great in warm weather as the steady wind and higher elevation will help keep you cool in the height of summer. The hilltop areas tend to dry quickly after the rain.

Avoid the forested areas in peak summer as they tend to be overgrown and covered in nettles.

Which guide should I buy?

Devon Bouldering by Dave Henderson and Ben Stokes. This 2024 guide includes over 2300 boulder problems on around 500 pages to choose from, covering the coasts, Dartmoor, inland Devon plus Tintagel and a few other gems just outside of the county.

Dartmoor - The Climbers Club Guide By James Clapham. This 2017 guide lists both roped routes and boulders. With maps, topos and detailed descriptions of 1200 boulder problems it will keep you going for years.

Handy websites

Javu: Here you will find detailed descriptions of problems with grades, how to get to individual areas and maps to help you find your way around. This site has all the problems listed in the guidebook and is a brilliant resource, but will need a fair bit of printing to have something you can use offline.

How do I get there?

As Dartmoor is a more remote area you will need to drive. It is about 5 hours southwest of London so plan for a weekend or longer if you live in the city.