The UK climbing scene is steeped in history and littered with heroes and yet there is one humble aspect that sometimes get overlooked: its bouldering scene.
When people think ‘outdoor bouldering’ it is usually places like Font, Hueco or Magic Forest that that come to mind. However the UK is home to some awesome bouldering destinations you should definitely be checking out.
The differences between areas in the UK is amazing and we argue something not found anywhere else in the world. Fancy chasing tides or bouldering with the sea for your backdrop? Portland’s got you. Perhaps you're more at home in the mountains? The Lakes have you covered. Need a bit of peace and quiet in a beautiful setting? The stunning bleakness of Queen’s Crag is just your ticket. Only have a few days after a trip to London? Southern Sandstone could be just what you're after.
The possibilities are almost endless when bouldering in the UK. Add to that it is a small country with all major rock types, and you really can choose what you want to be climbing on any given trip.
Here, in no particular order, are 12 of the biggest bouldering spots in the British Isles. Unfortunately, it wasn’t possible to discuss every area as there are so many, but we’ve had a good stab at providing an overview of what the UK has to offer.
For the chosen areas, we’ll show what you're in for at each spot, plus the bouldering guide we found most useful. You can also find a more detailed view of these in the destination section.
A quick note on the guides: we are not sponsored by anyone and have used each of the books we’re recommending. Having climbed for many years we’ve tried most, and these are our favourites.
The links will be to Amazon and they provide us with a small commission if you go on to purchase the guide. This comes at no extra cost for you and helps us with a little kickback.
For anyone purchasing one of the guides recommended here, we thank you! We are also proud supporters of local shops and businesses, and all the guides mentioned in this article can be found locally if you would prefer.
1) Peak District
When you want to get away into the wild highlands, the Peak District is home to some of the best mountain biking, hiking and of course rock climbing in the UK.
The Peak District is home to the most popular crags for trad climbing but if bouldering is your thing then the Burbage Valley should be just a popular. Broken into North and South sections, you have hundreds of problems on beautiful gritstone. The surrounding peaks make for a beautiful setting but the climbing is what is the draw. From easy beginner problems to unclimbed projects, the climbing has something for everyone.
The Peaks is also home to many other areas which shouldn't be surprising since it is covered with hills and mountains. Places like Raven Tor offer excellent hard overhanging problems on solid limestone.
Get the latest Peak District bouldering guidebook here.
2) North Wales
North Wales is geographically small but home to some of the wildest areas in the British Isles. Rugged seacoast combined with craggy mountain summits are all within a short drive. For the boulderer who wants variety, you can race the tide in the morning with some beach bouldering and finish the day crushing problems on top of a glen in the afternoon.
In the not far off reaches of Snowdonia National Park, you will find the highest peaks in Wales which happen to be accompanied by a lot of rocky valleys, both of which are perfect for bouldering. Located just to the east of the coast, the mountains rise up moving you away from the tides and coastal bouldering to a distinctive alpine feel, even though you are only at 300 meters.
Home to Llanberis Pass and Ogwen to name but a few, Snowdon is a bouldering (and climbing and hiking and trail running..) playground. With a distinctive alpine feel, the climbing at Wavelength Boulders and Cromlech, which are across the road from each other, offers around 500 problems. From face and crack climbs to epic roof problems, you can try out hard test pieces put up by the likes of Jerry Moffat and Alex Megos if you want to walk in the footsteps of climbing legends.
Get the latest North Wales bouldering guidebook here.
3) Lake District
In the northwest of England sits the Lake District National Park, whose name is both accurate for the number of lakes but doesn't tell the whole story. The park is covered in mountains as well which are home to countless bouldering opportunities.
The Coniston Boulders are one of the headline areas. Over 200 routes covering just about all difficulties, this out of the way spot offers rugged rhyolite boulders set among mountains and lakes. Being a little more off the beaten track the traffic tends to be low giving you your pick of which problems you want to tackle. Located near the village of Coniston, you aren't far from amenities but when on the rock will feel like you are off in the wilderness.
4) Dartmoor
Dartmoor is a land of both history and mystery (don’t let the stories of the moor killer put you off!), that just happens to have some of the best granite bouldering in the UK.
Located in Devon in the southwest England, Dartmoor National Park is 386 square miles of hills topped with granite outcroppings called Tors. Down in the valleys, you can find thousands of scattered boulders that if you didn't know any better, you'd think were placed there just for climbing. With an image in popular culture from Sherlock Holmes and to Harry Potter, climbing in Dartmoor feels a bit like being on a movie set.
Even in areas with short approaches, it has a wild and remote feel. To add to this, you will also encounter herds of wild ponies and sheep roaming the land. Keep an eye out in the summer for the new foals as a dose of cuteness.
The rock is granite which can be particularly sharp. The friction tends to be good for your feet, but you may sacrifice some skin to get this. Bring along some tape to reinforce your fingertips.
Bonehill Rocks is the Moor's most popular bouldering area with over a hundred problems and short approaches. By short we mean as soon as you get out of the car the boulders are right there. There is something for everyone with grades from V0 to V12 plus a ton of eliminates and traverses to add to the mix.
Bel Tor is also close so you can add to the variety if Bonehill is too busy. The hilltop location means breezy summer days and quick drying after the rain.
Get the latest Dartmoor bouldering guidebook here.
5) Portland
Portland is an island that connects to the mainland by a narrow isthmus of land so the whole shore is dotted with climbing spots. The combination of summer resort island mixed with endless rock is a climber’s dream. On this small island, you will find so many boulder problems that you can keep returning for years.
Working counter-clockwise around the island you have easy access to West Weares, with a solid selection of problems in the mid grades. Slightly further south you have Blacknor Fort and Beach which cater to the new and advanced climbing. This is followed by Battleship Beach, the Lighthouse Area, and Cheyne Weares. This is capped off with the 500 plus problems in the Cuttings Boulder Field. With so many climbs you can always find something to work on even when the tides are high.
To add to your trip, either on the way to or from the island you can hit Lulworth and Swanage just west on the mainland.
Get the latest Portland bouldering guidebook here.
6) Yorkshire Dales
While the UK may not have the big walls and alpine climbing of North America or Europe, it more than makes up for it with spectacular outdoor bouldering venues.
Northern England is a bouldering mecca with thousands of problems on gritstone, limestone, and sandstone. With Lancashire to the west and North York Moors to the east, Yorkshire Dales sits in the middle offering many crags with the biggest boasting over a thousand documented problems.
Located just north of Leeds, the Dales boasts great climbing in beautiful settings. The river valleys and hills of the area offers prime bouldering terrain but also offer great hiking and caving, so you have plenty to do if you need to take a rest day. Since it is a highland watershed you can also find a lot of waterfalls if you want to make your Instagram more than just climbing photos.
With 1035 documented routes Brimham Rocks could be your one destination for a whole trip. Located about 5 kilometres east of Pateley Bridge this is more of a collection of mini crags and boulders all within close walking distance of each other. The approach is short with the furthest problems being around half a kilometre from the carpark, but you will still get a lot of steps in exploring and moving from area to area. With so many problems there is something for everyone with cracks, off-widths, roof problems, slabs, and traverses. The grades range from Font F1-F8 so new climbers can enjoy themselves as well without getting shut out.
Get the latest Yorkshire bouldering guidebook here (Vol 1), here (Vol 2) or here (North summary guide).
7) Scotland
Aside from the pretty towns and beautiful scenery, Scotland is home to many granite and grit crags. You can find old quarries and boulders in the woods near major towns as well as more wild settings in the highlands.
Since the weather tends to be milder than further south, Scotland can be a great destination in the height of summer when it is too hot anywhere else (beware the midges though, they bite).
In the highlands, a top bouldering spot is around Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK. Just outside Fort William on the approach to climbing the mountain, you will be in a glen full of boulders and small cliffs. Some of the overhanging and roof problems stay dry when raining so it is possible to climb regardless of the weather. The bullet hard schist offers good friction and dries quickly. The mix of quality of climbs and location make this an epic destination.
Get the latest Scotland bouldering guidebook here, or here for a Glasgow specific guide.
8) Lancashire
The county of Lancashire is in North West England with the town of Preston as its regional centre. It is located just north of Manchester, so the access is simple whether you are driving or flying in. A 45-minute drive from the Manchester Airport, getting around to the crags is quick and easy.
The area boasts 47 crags with hundreds of boulder problems. The climbing is on gritstone which for the most part is of very high quality. Since the area is relatively small and many of the crags are close together, it isn't hard to hit multiple spots in a day. Approaches can vary from the roadside to a 60-minute walk.
There are many natural crags but there are also a larger number of abandoned quarries that have been opened for climbing. While it can be overshadowed by some of the ‘bigger hitters’ there is a wide variety of climbing with more being developed regularly. The combination of low traffic and great rock makes it another fantastic spot to hit on busy holiday weekends when the crowds can be heavy elsewhere.
Get the latest Lancashire bouldering guidebook here.
9) Southern Sandstone
If you are visiting London but want to get on some real rock and quickly, head south. About 45 minutes south of London is a collection of small sandstone crags perfect for an outdoor bouldering trip. Located near the border of Sussex and Kent the various crags and boulders are hidden among the rolling hills and forests. For most of the crags, Tunbridge Wells is the nearest town with amenities.
It is a testament to people's desire to climb and put up new routes that in such a small area thousands of lines have been developed. The BMC manages a couple of areas and works to protect both access and the rock. For those who have made the trip to Fontainebleau, the rock is similar but softer. This area has an ethic of conservation so take the time to research before you go to try minimizing your impact on the rock.
For those who haven't climbed on sandstone, you are in for a treat as it highly varied due to erosion so there are cracks and crimps, overhangs and off-widths. With grades suitable for beginners all the way up you will be able to find climbs that capture your interest and imagination. Friction is good but sandy holds are to be expected. This type of rock may take a bit of getting used to it is worth the effort as it will open a whole world of new problems to attempt.
Harrison Rock is the largest crag in the area with over 400 problems. It is managed by the BMC and owned by the climbing community, so access isn't an issue.
Get the latest Southern Sandstone bouldering guidebook here, or here.
10) North York Moors
Northeast of Leeds lies the North York Moors National Park which, aside from being wild and beautiful, is also home to countless crags and endless boulder problems.
From upland heather moors to seaside boulders, the park is a wonderland for the average tourist but an endless collection of rock problems for the climber.
About four hours from London and 2 hours from Manchester, North York Moors is easily accessible for a weekend jaunt that will involve chalk and crashpads. Being less popular than some of the nearby national parks, you will often find it less busy here so it would be an excellent choice for those wanting a bit of peace.
Right in the heart of the park near Low Mill, Duck Boulders has over a hundred problems ranging from F1 to F7C+. The approach is an easy 20-minute trek and the rock dries quickly. This is another hard sandstone area so the rock should be given a couple of days to dry after rain. There are balancing slab problems as well as steep face climbing and tricky aretes, making for a lot of variety of skills and styles of climbing needed to send at this spot. Exploring around the hillside will find you many boulders so if one doesn't suit you another is only a few steps away.
Get the latest North York Moors bouldering guidebook here.
11) Northern Ireland
Whether as part of a bigger trip or just for bouldering, Northern Ireland is a land of beauty that offers a lot of climbing. Located on the North Coast an hour drive from Belfast, Fairhead is the biggest climbing area in Northern Ireland.
The bouldering sits on the shore below the towering cliffs. From the top of the cliffs, you can see Scotland on a clear day, making this one of the more scenic bouldering spots.
You can also find bouldering in the southern mountains all of which are only a few hours away from Belfast.
For such a small place they have a wide variety of terrain, from sea cliffs to granite mountains.
Get the latest Fairhead bouldering guidebook here.
12) Northumberland
When heading north, just before you get to Scotland, you will encounter Northumberland National Park. Home of the darkest skies in Britain along with remnants of Hadrian's Wall, a visit here is like a step back in time. Since we can't climb all the time, having a wild place to explore is a nice fall back when you need a rest.
With many crags spread over the area, you have both grit and sandstone climbing so you will be able to find something to suit most styles.
If you want to find a lot of climbing in one place these three crags are located a couple of kilometres west of Belford and are within a short walk of each other. Combined they have over 600 routes on decent quality sandstone. Back Bowden Doors is northernmost of the three, with a short approach and westerly aspect making it great for a late afternoon session. The 200 plus problems range from Font F3-F8b offering up something for everyone.
Bowden Doors is a little further south sitting atop a hill. There are a variety of styles here from slabs to roof problems with the grade range like Back Bowden Doors, but with more climbs in the lower grades. Due to its location on the top of the hill, it doesn't tend to be wet and dries quickly after the rain. Ravens Crag is at the bottom of the hill that Bowden Doors is on. 100 problems are on offer with the highest density in the mid grades. The wall offers a mix of styles with some challenging traverses if you want to test your endurance.
Get the latest Northumberland bouldering guidebook here, or here (North summary guide).
The wrap up
If you are looking to go on a bouldering trip or you are from the UK, then consider climbing local. The climbing is great most of the year, the scenery is beautiful and options aplenty.
If you’re looking for an overview guidebook of UK bouldering, we couldn’t recommend Boulder Britain highly enough. A massive achievement, the dedicated authors spent year’s traipsing around the UK documenting and photographing as much of the UK bouldering as they could stomach and feasibly fit into one, portable, guidebook.