With thousands of problems already on the books and many more waiting to be found, Southern Sandstone is a unique bouldering destination.

Whether training for a trip to Fontainebleau or looking for a fun challenge, the main bouldering spot in the South East is worth the trip.

Let’s be honest, Southern Sandstone can sometimes get a bit of a bad wrap when compared to it’s more popular brothers and sisters elsewhere in the UK.

That said, if you’re looking for a quick trip out of the city to some real rock, it can fit the bill nicely. About 45 minutes south of London is a collection of small sandstone crags perfect for an outdoor bouldering trip. Located near the border of Sussex and Kent, the various crags and boulders are hidden among the rolling hills and forests of the High Weald ‘Area of Natural Beauty’. For most of the crags, Tunbridge Wells is the nearest town with amenities.

It is testament to people’s desire to climb and put up new routes that in such a small area thousands of lines have been developed. The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) manages a couple of areas and works to protect both access and the rock.

For those who have made the trip to Fontainebleau, the rock is similar, but sometimes softer. For those who haven't climbed on sandstone, you are in for a treat as the holds are highly varied. They range from cracks to crimps, to overhangs or off-widths, all of which is a pleasure to climb on (and kinder on the old fingertips). With grades suitable for beginners all the way up you will be able to find climbs that capture your interest and imagination.

Area Highlights

Harrison’s Rocks

Harrison's Rocks has the largest number of climbs of any of the Southern Sandstone crags.  It is owned by the climbing community and managed by the BMC, so access is always open. The approach takes about 10-15 minutes making for the longest in the area. Not bad when you want to get in as much climbing as possible.

With boulder problems from F2-F7C there is something for everyone. The sheer number of routes will mean you can make many trips to experience all it has to offer.

Harrison's Rocks is located just south of the village of Groombridge. Access is free but there is a fee for parking. There is camping across the road for a small fee if you want to make a weekend of it.

Stone Farm

Another BMC owned crag, Stone Farm is south of East Grinstead putting it further to the west than the other crags but still worth the trip. Being the closest crag to London it saw a lot of traffic and suffered from erosion, but ongoing repairs have worked to keep the rock in climbable condition.

The rocks are on a hill overlooking Weir Wood Reservoir, making for a pretty setting when you are taking a break between attempts. The exposed nature means it dries quicker than some of the more tree-covered areas. 

Bowles Rocks

Many consider this the best sandstone climbing of the South East with lots of classic boulder problems, good rock and short approaches. Bowles have more routes in the easy to the moderate range but still has routes up to F7C for the strong climbers in your group.

This area is part of an outdoor education centre so there is a small fee to climb here. The proceeds go to the ongoing running of the centre so it is for a good cause. Courses are available if you want to increase your knowledge. The fee is 5 pounds per day (4 pounds after 5 pm) or 35 pounds for the year.

Toad Rock

If you are new to outdoor bouldering a trip to Toad Rock is a perfect place to start. Described as a mini Fontainebleau, it has a wide selection of boulder problems in the easier grades. But don't worry as there are still problems for the crushers up to F7b.

Bulls Hollow is just to the south and there are a few more boulder problems among the taller routes.

Located about a mile west of Tunbridge Wells you can see the boulders from the road. Easy access and easy grades make this a great spot if you are bringing friends for their first trip outside the gym.

The rock here is very fragile so make sure it hasn't rained for a few days before and focus on clean footwork to reduce erosion. There is a pub just down the road for refreshments after climbing.

Happy Valley

As the name implies this location is in a valley full of joy for boulderers, located 1 mile west of Tunbridge Wells. The rock is located on Commons land making it accessible year-round without a fee.

There are problems spread throughout the area making for fun exploration. Due to its location up the valley, the rock tends to dry quickly.

Aside from the selection of boulder problems you will be in an idyllic setting so bring the ham and cheese sarnies and enjoy the day out.

Considerations when climbing on sandstone

The rock of the Southern Sandstone is a particularly soft type of sandstone so care must be taken when climbing. There are often guidelines in the guidebooks for the area.

Friction is good but sandy holds are to be expected. This type of rock may take a bit of getting used to if you haven’t climbed on it before, but it is well worth the effort.

Take the time to develop a feel for the rock and ethics for the area. It is a fragile resource that is worth protecting so it can be enjoyed in the future.

Never climb when the rock is wet. Sandstone is a very porous rock and weakens considerably when it’s been raining. Give at least a couple of days after a rain so it can dry completely. If the dense outer layer is damaged the rock can erode quickly underneath. If you come across a broken hold or other damage, kindly send an email to acccess@thebmc.co.uk with information about the crag and route and they’ll try to repair it.

Use a matt or towel to clean off your shoes before each climb to reduce abrasive wear and tear.

If you are going to brush holds only use a brush with long soft bristles. Excessive brushing with a stiff brush can damage the rock.

Minimise the use of loose chalk. Use a chalk ball or liquid chalk to minimise the chalk build-up.

Logistics

When should I go?

You can climb these areas any time of year that it is dry but in summer some of the areas can get overgrown.

Which guide should I buy?

If you can find it, we really rate Southern Sandstone Bouldering: A comprehensive guide to bouldering in the Southeast by James O'Neil and Ben Read. Covering most of the bouldering areas of the Southern Sandstone this guide lists routes, grades, and has topos to make finding your way easier. It also includes information about the history of climbing in the area and the code of conduct to help protect the rock.

Southern Sandstone Climbs by Daimon Beall. This is available in print or on the Rockfax digital app. This guide has bouldering and roped climbing listed, but bouldering routes are listed with the Font grades so easy to sort from the roped routes. Published in 2017 wIth a comprehensive list of routes with descriptions, photos, and topos this will make finding your next challenge very simple.

Handy websites

Southern Sandstone Climbing: Set up as a non-profit hub for Southern Sandstone climbing information, this is a great resource to better understand the feel and the ethic of the area. Covering all things Southern Sandstone including rock conditions, access issues, and current events.

The BMC: If you do a search on the BMC website for Southern Sandstone you will find a wealth of information on climbing in the Southeast.

UKClimbing: On UK Climbing you can search for the crags or routes using their logbook tab. You can track your climbs and see what the current conditions are before making a trip.

How do I get there?

Driving is the easiest way to get to Southern Sandstone climbing but there are trains into Tunbridge Wells as well as buses in the area. If you want to make the trip you can do it without a car but expect a bit of walking to get to the crags.