Lancashire will surprise you with how much climbing is available, with quantity only matched by the quality.

If you are looking for accessible gritstone climbing without the crowds, then Lancashire may well be what you’re after.

The county of Lancashire is in North West England with the town of Preston as its regional centre. It is located just north of Manchester, so the access is simple whether you are driving or flying in. A 45-minute drive from the Manchester Airport, getting around to the crags is quick and easy.

There are many natural crags but there are also a large number of cool abandoned quarries that have been opened for climbing. While less popular than some other areas there is a wide variety of climbing with more being developed regularly. The climbing falls into one of two categories, moorland gritstone or quarried rock. Visitors to the area will understandably be tempted by the moors, offering stunning views and funky rock formations. The quarries hold their own as interesting destinations, but are more popular amongst locals looking for a quick post-work climb. 

The area boasts 47 crags with hundreds of boulder problems. Since the area is relatively small and many of the crags are close together it isn't hard to hit multiple spots in a day. Approaches can vary from the roadside to a 60-minute walk.

The crags can roughly be divided into 3 areas: Bowland, The Qaurries and The East Lancashire Moors. In this guide we’ll run through a selection of crags in each of these areas.

Area Highlights

Bowland

The north of Lancashire County is open rolling hills with boulders hidden among the landscape. The area is vast, and the climbing isn't obvious. If you just head out randomly you might struggle to find any climbable rock which is why having a guidebook is important.

Great for a full day out with lots of climbing and a relaxing setting. Since many of the areas have a bit of an approach you get rewarded by very few crowds.

Windy Clough

Windy Clough is a few kilometres east of the town of Lancaster. Accessed from a trailhead on Rigg Lane, the approach is about 1 km. There are boulder problems all over the hillside so expect to have to explore a bit.

There are over a hundred documented problems with plenty of potential for first ascents. This is a good area for novice to intermediate climbers with routes graded from Font 3-7b.

Thorn Crag

Southeast of Windy Clough is the area of Thorn Crag. Park in the village of Tarnbrook and hike out into the hills for about 30 minutes to get a collection of boulders with over a hundred problems. This area is more for intermediate to advanced climbers with most of the climbs in the F5-7+ range.

Craig Y Longridge

Just outside the town of Longridge to the east, you will find a reclaimed quarry with almost 200 boulder problems. The approach is short with parking along Old Clitheroe Road near Dilworth Reservoir.

The Quarries

To the south of Preston, there is a collection of old gritstone quarries that are now open for climbing. They have a habit of dividing opinions and punishing poor footwork (our editor Chris has an ankle scar as testimony to this!). But for those willing to give it a try they offer a unique and plentiful array of boulder problems.

Brownstones

Brownstones is the natural first port of call for quarry climbing in Lancashire and rightly so. Everyone can enjoy a trip here, with lots of routes on high quality rock and easy access making this worth the trip. Since this area is on a hill it will tend to get more wind helping it dry quickly after a rain and be cooler in summer.

Currently, there are 180 boulder problems ranging from F3-7b+ so you can bring along your novice friends and they won't find it hard to get stuck in.

Wilton Quarries

This is a series of four quarries that are all open for climbing. Hundreds of climbs, easy access and decent quality rock make this a great location to experience quarried gritstone. While there are some easy climbs most are intermediate and harder. For harder climbing the Wiltons probably has the edge on Brownstones.

Wilton 1 is owned by the BMC and has no access issues. Wilton 2 is just to the northwest and has no access issues. Further to the northwest, you will find Wilton 3 and 4 are open for climbing but access is shared with a local shooting club, so you need to check to see if it is available on the day you want to go.

Located near the town of Sharples these crags are among the closest to Manchester.

There is of course many more than we have mentioned here (Stronstrey, Stanworth, Ousel’s Nest, Healey Nab), which tend to lend themselves to evening sessions or when time is short.

East Lancashire Moors

Further to the east out in the countryside you will find the East Lancashire Moors. Located between Todmorden in the north and Littleborough to the south, this area has longer approaches, no crowds, beautiful locations, and many unclimbed problems for the more adventurous among us.

Stony Edge

On the banks of the Warland Reservoir, Stony Edge has over a hundred climbs between F3 and F7b+. The rock is rough making for great friction and sore fingers. The approach is about an hour but is flat so isn't too bad. With any long approach, it helps to think of it as a warm-up. Just remember to bring a headlamp in case you have to walk out in the dark.

Blackstone Edge

Hundreds of routes up on the hillside make for a great many days of bouldering. Located just east of Littleborough, Blackstone Edge would be more popular if it was a roadside crag. The approach is about 30 minutes which is enough to send people to other locations.

Its location means it will tend to be windier making it good after rain or in summer. While there are few super easy problems, with this many climbs there is something for everyone.

Cow's Mouth Quarry

Parking in the same spot you would for Blackstone Edge, you head north from the parking lot for about 20 minutes to find a collection of problems in this old quarry.

Cow's mouth crag is west facing so you will get the afternoon sun. Besides the quarry, there are free-standing boulders in the surrounding area waiting to be climbed. Some of the problems are highballs so make sure you've got crash mats.

There is a pub at the trailhead. Be sure to check it out to celebrate your days climbing. A nice treat to look forward to on the hike out.

Considerations when climbing on gritstone

Gritstone is a sedimentary rock like sandstone, but the grains are larger. The rock is harder and more durable than sandstone.

It dries fairly quickly so it is fine to climb if it rained the previous day. Gritstone is a course rock that often lacks defined edges so smearing and sloper holds are common.

Climbing in a deliberate and precise manner is rewarded. Sticky softer shoes can help.

Due to the texture, it can be hard on the skin so make sure you bring tape for your fingers. Chalk up regularly as dry skin grips better and will allow you more burns before your skin has to heal up.

If you have never climbed on gritstone it is a good idea to start a couple of grades below your usual level to get a feel for the different styles needed. Don't be discouraged if at the beginning it seems hard. Each type of rock requires specific skills that need to be developed.

Logistics

When should I go?

The best time to climb gritstone is when it is cool and dry so autumn and early winter can be the best times. Climbing is possible all year round though if you pick your venue wisely. Moorland crags are great for hot summer days and the day after rainfall. The quarries are lovely and pleasant in summer (beware the midges though!) but can suffer from seepage in winter months.

Since the rock dries quickly any crags in open areas or on hilltops that receive the wind will tend to be climbable even if it rained the previous day.

Which guide should I buy?

Lancashire Bouldering By Robin Mueller. Published in 2014, this guidebook covers 47 different crags in the Lancashire area. Color photos, topos, interviews, and maps make this the easiest foray into bouldering in this area.

Or if you’re looking for a summary guide of the best crags in the North, Northern Rock by Wired Guides is well worth a try. It covers 3500 routes across traditional climbing, sport climbing and bouldering in Yorkshire (grit and limestone), Northumberland, Lancashire and the North York Moors.

Handy URLs

UKClimbing.com

The UKC website is a great source of information for bouldering in Lancashire. The interactive map makes finding the area you want to climb much easier. They also keep it up to date as far as access issues go so you know which crags are open and what the rules are.

Their page on Lancashire Bouldering (written by Robin Mueller) is very helpful as well.

How do I get there?

To get around Lancashire you will need a car even though a lot of the areas are pretty close together. If you’re driving, then it is simple to take major motorways towards Manchester and then follow M61 or M66, depending on whether you are heading to the western or eastern areas. If flying, car rentals are available at the airport.