From the seaside to the Highlands, Scotland is an unlikely bouldering destination that will surprise you with the variety and quantity of problems.

Granite, basalt, sandstone. Take your pick of rock and climbing styles in the many bouldering areas of Scotland.

In a country that is known for rocky shores and mountains, it isn't surprising that it turns out there are a lot of bouldering opportunities. Since Scotland is relatively small you can cross the country in a matter of hours, giving you countless opportunities to challenge yourself on many rock types and styles of boulder problems.

Many of the bouldering areas are located in scenic rural settings, rewarding you with both excellent climbing and breathtaking views.

When you combine mountains and sea you will also get highly variable weather. In exposed and south-facing areas the rock can dry quickly but give sandstone a couple of days to dry out as it is more fragile.

If you have never been to Scotland then think of combining a tourist trip with some bouldering. Due to the weather you might have to do this anyway. A morning of climbing in the sun could be followed by an afternoon of drizzle. The exercise will help burn off the pints and haggis at the pub while you wait for the sky to clear.

Since the countryside is covered in rock there is still a lot of un-climbed boulders, but you will have to trek further afield to find something that hasn't been climbed.

Area Highlights

South West

Mainly along the shore, the boulder problems in the southwest have the advantage of being the closest if you are driving up from England.

Clifton crag, Thirstane, and Sandy Hills are pretty close together so you can easily climb at all three on the same day. Further west along the coast you have Garheugh Port where you have to time your beach-side bouldering with the tides. If you don’t it might turn into a not so deep water solo.

Highlands

In the highlands, the prime bouldering spot is around Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the UK. Just outside Fort William on the approach to climbing the mountain, you will be in a glen full of boulders and small cliffs. Some of the overhanging and roof problems stay dry when raining, so if you are strong enough you can climb regardless of the weather.

There are a number of smaller bouldering crags in the highlands as well. Check the guidebook to find your way to these quieter destinations.

As the ground is often damp bring a tarp as well as your bouldering pad to keep your shoes dry.

Central Regions

This strip through the middle of Scotland, from Glasgow to Edinburgh, has the highest density of bouldering in the country.

Dumbarton and Craigmore just outside of Glasgow give you almost 600 basalt problems, enough to occupy multiple trips. Here you will find sharp edges, precise footwork and grades for everyone.

On the Edinburgh side, you will find Salisbury Crag and Agassiz Rock, which offer moderate to hard problems right in town. The rock quality varies so check with the guidebook or talk to locals to find the best lines.

Heading slightly north you have a vast selection of bouldering crags out in the countryside. The more pastoral setting means prettier views and fewer crowds. Glen Lednock Boulders and Wolfgang Quarry have a nice selection of routes. Slightly to the west, you will find many more crags and boulder fields to explore. Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park have many crags in a wilder setting.

North West

If you are looking for wild and remote places to boulder then head into the Northwest of Scotland. From the Hallival Boulders, which require a ferry ride to the Small Isles National Scenic Area, to the Sheigra Bouldering far to the north, if you are looking to get away from civilisation then this is the place for you.

Another prime spot in the Northwest is Torridon Celtic Jumble. Aside from being a great name for a bouldering area, it also boasts almost 250 sandstone boulder problems overlooking the loch. Routes of all grades make this a great spot to bring a mixed group as there is something for everyone.

Aberdeen

On the east coast, just south of Aberdeen there are a couple of mica schist bouldering areas that have hundreds of problems. Crisp edges, technical problems and cool breezes add up to fun climbing. There are all grades but the highest density is in the middle range.

A lot of the landings are on the uneven rock so team up and build a garden of crash pads to protect the falls.

Inverness

Near the town of Inverness, there are a number of bouldering areas that are worth a visit. To the south of town, you will find Ruthven Boulder which has more than 50 problems. The rock is sharp, the landings are flat and climbing is visible from the car park.

Further east along the bay you will come to Cummingston and Primrose Bay, which house more than 300 climbs on beautiful sandstone. The rock is highly featured making for a variety of problems and climbing styles. Like any sandstone, don't climb when it's wet as it weakens the rock.

Logistics

When should I go?

You can climb in Scotland year-round.

That said, during the summer months (May onwards) the midgie population can thrive when out in the wilderness, particularly areas with long grass or those that are sheltered. As a result the best times of year for bouldering are typically early summer (April) or late summer (September) - but do check as it varies for each crag.

In summer, focus on the seaside climbs or alpine areas as they will benefit from a breeze and most likely be midgie-free.

Which guide should I buy?

Boulder Scotland By John Watson. This comprehensive guide covers most of the bouldering areas in the country. The guide is 320 pages with colour photos, topos, maps and descriptions of the areas and climbs. Or here for a Glasgow specific guide from the same author and here for a guide on Dumbarton.

If you’re a fan of the Vertical-Life app, you can also download the guidebook if you would like a digital version. Buyers of the book should be able to download a version for free via a code inside. If yours doesn’t have this, feel free to email boulderscotland@gmail.com and they can help.

Handy websites

Boulder Scotland: This is the companion website of the Boulder Scotland guidebook. It has slightly more detailed topos, maps showing the location of each crag and videos of the classic problems in Scotland to get you psyched.

UKClimbing: With descriptions, interactive maps and resources, UK climbing is one of the best sources for information about bouldering in Scotland.

How do I get there?

Other than a few urban climbing areas, most of Scottish bouldering is out in the countryside, so you will need a car.

If you fly in then rentals are available at the airports. Once you are outside the bigger cities, traffic will tend to be on the lighter side so it is quick and easy to get around.