For such a small area, North Wales is blessed with an endless amount of bouldering. The variety of locations, quality of problems and diversity of rock types make North Wales one of the best bouldering destinations in the UK.

From seaside beach boulders to alpine boulder fields, the variety of locations, rock type and climbing style mean that no matter what type of climbing you are looking for it will be available in North Wales.

Tucked away on the west coast, North Wales is a mix of mountains and ocean with awesome views. North Wales bouldering is so diverse that this could be the only place you come to in the UK and you would find it hard to run out of problems.

Unlike other areas in the UK that tend to be similar in rock types, you will find limestone, gritstone, slate, gabber, rhyolite and Welsh igneous rock here. Each will offer a distinctive style and flavour to the climbs.

Whether you want to play to your strengths or work on your weaknesses, the diverseness of problems (including cool overhanging caves) means you can always find what you are looking for.

While press coverage tends to focus on the tougher test pieces, with so many boulders it won't be hard to find easy and moderate problems at most of the crags as well.

Area Highlights

Snowdonia National Park

This national park contains the highest peaks in Wales, which happen to be accompanied by a lot of rocky valleys that are perfect for bouldering. Located just to the east of the coast, the mountains rise up moving you away from the tides and coastal bouldering to a distinctive alpine feel.

Cromlech Boulders

If you love bouldering but don't like long approaches, then Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass is perfect for you as the rocks are roadside.

Located a few kilometres east of the village of Llanberis the area boasts almost 300 established problems from V0 to V12. The grading is in both Hueco and Font grading depending on who put up the route. Check out our article on bouldering grades for a useful conversion chart, which you’re welcome to download.

There are many styles of climbing from cracks, to face climbing to overhanging roof problems. Some of the hard test pieces were put up by the legendary Jerry Moffat and Alex Megos, so you have a chance to tread in the footsteps of giants. It’s also home to my first ever f7A The Edge Sit Start, and holds particularly fond memories of evenings spent working this crimpy beauty.

Wavelength Boulders

A short walk from Cromlech, Wavelength boulders are located on the south side of the pass across the road and up the hill. These boulders are located behind the alpine club's hut so parking can sometimes be an issue during busy times.

With over 200 problems ranging from V1 to V11 you will have no problem finding a challenge to suit.

Utopia Boulders

If you are looking to get away from the crowds and enjoy some climbing in true alpine setting, then head upslope from Cromlech and enjoy the Utopia Boulders. Located on the south side of the valley, these problems overlook the valley below.

The approach is around 30 minutes all of which is uphill, so it keeps the folks looking for easy pickings away. While there are only 30 routes from V0-V8, the location and exciting top outs make it worth the trek. This is a terrific location on scorching summer days as the exposed position high in the valley lends itself to a steady breeze.

RAC Boulders

If you head about 8 kilometres east on road A4085 from Cromlech you will come to the RAC Boulders. The approach is short with most of the problems being within a few minutes of the road. There are currently 128 documented problems so there will be more than enough for multiple days.

With a lot of easy to moderate problems, this gives you another area with excellent quality rock in a beautiful mountain environment. For many of the problems the ground is flat and grassy, making for a safe landing. Being a little further afield this can be a great option when Cromlech and Wavelength are crowded.

Sheeps Pen

This west-facing crag gets sun late in the day making it a great spot to hit in the late afternoon. Located in the Ogwen Valley to the northwest of Llanberis, Sheeps Pen boulders are on the plateau on the west side of the A5 road. The approach will take about 15 minutes up the hill to the closest boulders.

With around a hundred problems there are several great projects to work on. The grades range from V0-V12 offering something for just about everyone to work on. Classic problems such as The Pinch (V7) or Jerry's Problem (V10) make this a worthwhile spot to head to if you want to bolster your tick list.

Anglesey Crags

The Anglesey area is an island in the northwest corner of Wales, connected to the mainland by a bridge near Bangor. While relatively small, the coast is rocky which means a wealth of climbing. There are 52 crags listed of assorted sizes, most with easy access. Several of them are on the shore so plan to get there just before the tide goes out to maximize your time.

Marquess of Anglesey Boulders

If you are bringing some new climbers out or you are one yourself this area has the highest density of easier climbs ranging from VB-V3 in the Hueco system.

Located on the Holyhead road just after you cross the bridge from the mainland, the approach is very short and the boulders are sheltered in the woods, giving some shade on a hot summer day or protection from the wind if it’s cold.

About 500 meters east is the Indefatigable Boulder which has a number of harder routes from f5-f7a+, giving some options to stronger climbers in the group.

The Ghost Cave

The Ghost Cave hosts problems that are accessible from mid to low tide. The approach is only a few minutes and the landings are flat, but pads are still recommended. Located on Holy Island on the far western point, there are also a number of other climbing areas along the shore.

The routes are moderate to hard with most in the f6-f7 range. With short boulder problems and pumpy traverse sequences, you can really challenge yourself regardless of grade. The rock is quartzite which tends to have positive edges and good cracks. It can be slippery when damp though.

Penmon Rocks

Located on the peninsula north of Bangor you want to hang a right once you cross the bridge and drive until you are almost in the sea. You will be greeted by a short approach but since this is another tidal area timing matters. There are over a hundred climbs on offer so there will be many projects to work on.

Striking aretes, tufas and deep-water soloing are all on offer here. The grades start at f2 and go up to f7a so most people will be able to find something in their range. The Dolfin wall offers eight deep water solo routes so if you are feeling adventurous bring you swimming trunks.

Fedw Fawr

The boulder problems at Fedw Fawr are on limestone with some exciting roof problems. Located just west of Penmon Rocks it would be easy to combine climbing in both areas.

Grades run from Font f4-f8a so while not a beginner area there are a lot of moderate problems here.

The approach is short. Once again you will be bouldering on the seashore so keep an eye on the tides.

Clwyd Crags

The Clwyd area is in the northeast corner of Wales, just west of Liverpool.

Pantymwyn (Devil's Gorge)

Just west of the village of Pantymwyn lies a limestone gorge that boasts a number of hard boulder problems with just enough moderate and easy routes to keep everyone busy. As you will find in some areas it is a mix of Font and Hueco grades so keep your conversion chart handy. Routes in the cave will test your pulling power with problems up to V11 and f8a+.

Ruthin Escarpment

Here you will park in the village of Pwllglas and walk about 10 minutes to come to this roadside crag. Another collection of limestone problems for the stronger climber with grades ranging f6b-f7B+. Easy access and good rock make this an attraction to the crusher, but a little over the head of newer climbers.

Conwy Crags

These crags are in the north coast area of the mainland out onto the peninsula near Llandudno. Lots of climbing with easy access.

Angel Bay

Limestone caves, walls and roof problems along the beach await you at Angel Bay. With around 80 problems from V0 to V11, there will be something for everyone.

Due to this being a prime seal breeding ground avoid areas with seals, especially pups. The area is closed to all access from late August to the end of November to protect the seals during the breeding season.

Parisella's Cave

Just north of the cable car station on Happy Valley Road, you will come to Parisella's Cave which has some of the hardest and most famous boulder problems in Wales. While there are some moderates there are many routes that are between V10 and V14. Even if you can't climb that hard it is cool to watch if someone is working on them.

Many of the routes are roof problems and even juggy problems will be strenuous. There are routes starting from V5 but most are on the harder end.

About a kilometre further north is the Pill Box Wall which while still not a beginner wall has more moderate bouldering problems if Parisella shuts you down.

Pigeon’s Cave

Located right beside the Pill Box Wall you will find many easier routes starting from V0. Once you’re done climbing you can take the cable car to the top of the hill to enjoy the views out over the water.

Gwynedd Crags

Gwynedd is a county that includes the Lleyn Peninsula and most of Snowdonia National Park and happens to contain an endless variety of bouldering. The mix of coastal locations is contrasted with the inland mountain passes and summit ridges.

Port Ysgo

On the south coast of the Lleyn Peninsula, Port Ysgo is a beautiful spot that feels like a trip to the beach. Most of the boulders aren't affected by the tide and climbing can be done throughout the day. There are almost 250 problems ranging from V0 to V10.

Some of the problems are highballs and the landings aren't smooth, so make sure you have thick bouldering pads and good spotters.

Gimblet Rock

When you want to combine climbing with a seaside vacation then head to Pwllheli, a small village with a bouldering spot right in town. While there are only 37 problems the rock quality is excellent, the landings onto a flat sandy beach and it's only a 5-minute walk to the pub.

This is a tidal area, but you can start climbing as soon as the tide moves out.

Considerations when climbing in North Wales

With so many types of rock, the climbing styles will vary. If you haven't climbed on a specific type of rock before, it can help to start a few grades lower than normal whilst you get a feel for the style. Gritstone is often a committing full-body effort while limestone can be big moves on small crimps.

None of the rock is particularly fragile and will tend to dry pretty quickly after rain.

With coastal areas keep an eye out if they are in tidal regions as you will have to time your climbing with low tide. Get a chart of tide times and aim to there before the tide goes out. It can help to set an alarm so you are able to clear out before the tide comes back in. Getting stranded due to the tides could mean a long wait, so always bring a headlamp and cool weather clothing just in case.

Logistics

When should I go?

North Wales is good to climb year-round if it's dry. Due to the low altitude of most of the crags, it doesn't get super cold even in winter and in the summer the coastal climbing tends to offer a cooling breeze. In the colder months aim for a south-facing rock to pick up as much sun as possible. Autumn and Spring are the best in terms of weather and conditions.

Which guide should I buy?

North Wales Bouldering: Volume 1 - Mountain Crags is the most recent guidebook to be released. “The rapid pace of development in recent years has meant a corresponding increase in the guidebook page count. There is now too much material to fit it all in one book, so a split into separate volumes has become necessary. The most logical split is between the inland mountain crags of Eryri and the coastal crags of Pen Llyn, Ynys Mon and Llandudno (plus the North East limestone crags).”

North Wales Bouldering by Simon Panton, released in 2017, is another great guidebook if you can get your hands on it. Maps, topos, descriptions and lots of color photos will help you find the problems and help build stoke for your next climbing trip. It is a huge guidebook and well worth the investment as it covers so much climbing. As one reviewer puts it: “If you don’t own this - do you even boulder North Wales…!”

Useful websites

North Wales Bouldering: Is the accompanying website to the guidebook and is a great complimentary resource.

UKClimbing: has good info on North Wales bouldering and the area maps can really help guide you to the crags.

How do I get there?

If you are driving it is about four and a half hours from London, but only an hour's drive from Liverpool to Snowdonia. Depending on the crag it may add half an hour.

If flying in then consider Liverpool as it is the closest airport with international flights. Car rentals are available at the airport.